Day 71. Elk Park, NY (SOBO mile 810.1) to NY Route 17A. (SOBO mile 822.5). 12.4 miles.
Another great day. Love the AT in New York! Perfect temperatures. Rocky climbs and descents, but also lots of sections of pure dirt. Nothing feels overwhelming. Only one place today where I had to use my hands for a brief second.
I am learning to take all NOBO comments, both in person and on the FarOut app, regarding the difficulty of these NY sections with a massive grain of salt. Having just come from Maine, I have a much different perspective on what is difficult. I find the trail through New York a good workout but never brutal or challenging. And I love the views and the open ledgy summits!
Speaking of NOBOs…I still see a bunch coming through. Five today. It is hard not to tell them, “You need to flip up!” Their pace will only get slower as they move north, so they need to flip up north now, do the Whites and Maine before Baxter SP closes, then head back south to here. They’ll eventually figure it out.
Only did 12.4 miles today because heavy rain is coming this afternoon and will last through the rest of the day and the evening. That is excellent news for all the currently dry water crossings. I finished up my miles just as the rain began and am now back in the motel room from last night.
I enter New Jersey tomorrow after doing seven last miles in New York. NOBO notes on FarOut describe some of those remaining NY miles as difficult climbs, but that is also how sections of today and yesterday were described…
New Jersey is supposed to feel like a cakewalk according to everything I’ve read and heard, and I’m looking forward to that.
My body feels good. My left foot hurts a tiny bit at night, other than that, I’m well. None of the waking up in pain that I experienced so often in New Hampshire and Maine. It’s nice to be on trail segments that aren’t constantly trying to kill you.
Day 72. NY Route 17 A/SOBO mile 822.5 To NJ Route 94/SOBO mile 837.6. 15.1 miles
New Jersey, baby!
But first, the last seven miles of New York. They were fine except for the final three, which would have been fun if it hadn’t rained all yesterday afternoon and evening. It was a series of slabs and tiny climbs, good stuff. Except, of course, everything was wet and therefore slick. I got through it, but my pace slowed drastically.
New Jersey’s AT trail is much easier compared with New York’s so far. Mostly dirt with some lengths of rockiness now and then. I flew along except for one descent that was very steep and bouldery, had a billion rock steps, and took forever to descend. At the bottom there was a sign labeling this stretch as “The Stairway to Heaven.”
Found myself on NJ Route 94 and next to Heaven Hill Farm and Garden Center. Had to get some food here, of course. All of it was tourist-priced but tasted oh so good! Had a milkshake (of course), grapes, cheese, and shortbread. Picked up some specialty protein bars and raspberry yogurt pretzels for breakfast tomorrow.
Ate my food at one of their shaded outside tables and realized I didn’t want to go any further today. I had originally planned to go about 22 miles to the next legal shelter (can’t just camp anywhere around here), but though the terrain was mostly easy today, my feet were sore regardless.
One of the workers came out and let me know that the owner allows camping in the back of their property! Woo-hoo! Am now set up near their trees. I’m going to end up with dew all over my tent tomorrow since I am out on the grass and in the open, but I’ll deal with it.
I thought that after I flipped I would do mostly 20+ miles a day, but now I don’t want to lock myself into that. Could I push and do mostly 20s from here to Springer? Perhaps. Would I enjoy that? Perhaps not.
Springer Mountain doesn’t close for the winter (unlike Katahdin). Now that I am not in constant suffer-and-survive mode, like I was through most of New England due to the excessive heat/humidity, bugs, and terrain, I am going to relax and really enjoy the rest of this hike. Most of the time that will likely mean between 15-22 miles a day, depending on the terrain and how I feel day-to-day, plus a zero a week. That has me finishing anywhere between early November and early December. I’m good with that.
Day 73, NJ Route 94/SOBO mile 837.6 to High Point Shelter/SOBO mile 856.5. 18.9 miles
I had a soaking wet tent, inside and out, when I awoke, of course. That’s what happens when you camp in the grass with no tree cover. Still, I’m grateful to Heaven Hill Farm for allowing me to stay on their property for free.
Easy terrain today with lots of lovely boardwalks through pretty fields and marshes. Climbed a big hill, had some nice rocky outcrops, then went through fields and marshes and wooded forests. The ascents and descents were mild, for the most part.
Took a look at the “Secret Shelter,” a privately owned building open for use to AT thruhikers. Really nice of the guy to provide that for us. I did not stay though as I wanted to hike more miles. Also, the water pump is currently shut off.
Took a 0.3 tenth of a mile detour into Unionville and bought some resupply and a sub sandwich at their deli. Took an hour break on their porch and relaxed.
The rest of the day was uneventful – except within a mile of the shelter I tripped on nothing, and my right patella took most of the brunt of my fall. The bone hit rock. Now I can’t walk without limping, and I can’t bend my knee properly. I am going to wrap the hell out of my knee tomorrow, and when I get to East Stroudsburg I will look for a sturdier brace. That’s 44 miles from here. My current little brace, a small wrap, and duct tape will have to do for the next two or three days. I don’t have time for injuries.
There is a huge group of Yale first-years at the shelter. They are doing their outdoor orientation before school begins. They are LOUD. Still though, thruhikers don’t own the shelter areas or campsites. Hopefully they will keep the bears away with their noise. It is nice that they are having fun and bonding before their school year begins.
There are also two section hikers here and a group of three just out for a week. Busy shelter area tonight.
My soaking wet tent dried out about an hour after I set it up, thank goodness. The late afternoon sun did the trick.
Day 74, High Point Shelter/SOBO mile 856.5 to Brink Road Shelter SOBO mile 876.2 19.7 miles
Slept really well even though the Yale students were so incredibly loud as I was going to bed. Hooray for earplugs and CBD.
Wrapped my knee all to hell before I began hiking. It hurt quite a bit when I began the day, but after a mile my knee settled down and only hurt when I went downhill. If I were not on a thruhike then I would stay off it for about a week. However, I am on a thruhike, so I will just wrap the knee tightly every morning and see what happens. Today worked out well.
Such lovely terrain! Gentle ups and downs, maybe a couple thousand feet of elevation gain at most throughout the day. Was treated to a great view of the New Jersey highpoint obelisk this morning. Had some nice views of the countryside on the tops of various hills. Had a delicious (and pricey) early dinner at a restaurant steps away from the trail in Culvers Gap. That dinner fueled me for a final 3.5 mile hike to my night’s shelter area.
I have almost no food left. There was no place to resupply in Culvers Gap, so I am going to be hungry when I arrive at Mohican Outdoor Center tomorrow. Thank goodness they serve food, and thank goodness tomorrow will be an easy 14 miles.
I am enjoying New Jersey’s terrain. Easy peasy. Every once in a while there are rocky stretches of trail, but for the most part it’s all just a pleasant walk in the woods.
Met two more groups of Yale students today. One is here at this shelter area, and the other was at a shelter I passed this morning. This group tonight isn’t as loud as the one from last night. Doesn’t matter anyway. Earplugs and CBD for the win.
Day 75. 14.3 miles.
Brink Road Shelter/SOBO Mile 876.2 to Mohican Outdoor Center/SOBO mile 890.5.
Grateful that my knee is doing much better today. It is not fully healed and still hurts on occasion, but it seems the wrap-it-to-hell-and-keep-hiking approach is working.
Experienced easy miles with moderate ups and downs and ridge walking. Entered the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. Besides one very short rock scramble, the trail continues to feel easy peasy. There are more rocks underfoot here and there, and I am waiting for the infamous “Rocksyvania” terrain to appear. That terrain supposedly stretches into New Jersey a bit, and I am curious to experience it. So far the rocks on the trail haven’t been anything I haven’t seen elsewhere.
“Rocksyvania,” or “Painsylvania,” refers to the northern half of the Pennsylvania AT which is apparently filled with small sharp rocks with the pointy ends sticking up, like you’re walking on shark teeth. That stretches for over a hundred miles. I’ve been told that once I am past all that, the entire rest of the trail, though of course filled with long ascents and descents, will feel simple compared to what I will have already hiked due to the relatively rock-and-root-free footing.
Today was just plain nice. Overcast skies, warm but not hot, a bit humid but not overwhelming. The views from the ridge-line were pretty.
Saw a female section hiker out starting New Jersey. Enjoyed speaking with her.
Got to the Catfish Fire Tower and chatted up two day hikers. One was a 60-something man who thinks he is too old to hike mountains. I told him about all the 70-something people I knew who hike the Whites on a regular basis.
Am staying the night in the bunk room at the Mohican Outdoor Center, an AMC facility. This place is amazing! A huge cabin. Four rooms, each with four bunks. A huge living space with books, games, a fireplace, a big kitchen, couches, and eating tables. A fire pit outside with chopped wood. Showers with soap and shampoo. Lights and electricity. A separate common area down the road open 24/7 with WiFi and couches. Cost? $50. And they have food for sale and a restaurant too. Hiker heaven. AND I have this place to myself so far (it’s a weekday). There are other cabins here too, but those are for private rentals. There is also a campground for hikers who prefer to pitch their tent ($12, comes with fire ring, picnic table, showers, bathrooms).
Day 76, 10.6 miles
Mohican Outdoor Center/ SOBO Mile 890.5 to Main Street in Delaware Water Gap (PA)/SOBO mile 901.1.
Luxuriously simple day today. Ate breakfast at the Mohican Outdoor Center and chatted with their staff member Johnny Dollar for a while before finally getting on trail at 7:30. Only had about ten and a half easy miles to do, so I took my time and enjoyed the gentle ups and ridge walking.
Saw a bear about five miles from the PA border. It was in a tree. I heard crashing sounds, looked to my left, and saw it frantically scrambling down a tree before running off. I tried to get a video, but by the time I got my phone up and the video on, the bear was gone. One of these days I will hopefully get one of my animal encounters on camera.
Had some nice views of the Upper Yards Creek Reservoir, and also walked past the National Natural Landmark Sunfish Pond. Sunfish Pond was designated a Registered National Landmark in 1935 and a NNL in 1970. It is a spring-fed lake created by the Wisconsin Glacier during the last ice age.
Reached the Dunfield Creek area and emerged by I-80. Cars!! Noise!! Walked across the loud and traffic-congested bridge into Pennsylvania.
I am doing a zero in the East Stroudsburg area, and before I went to my motel I stopped by Village Farmer and Bakery. Back in 1994, when I was 23, I lived in this area for nine months doing local theater, and I went to this bakery frequently. Very glad it is still here and thriving! There are a gazillion different kinds of pies made here, and Susan, who let me take her photo, has run the place since 1976.
I bought a small Shepherds Pie for dinner, two slices of Shoo Fly pie, an entire blueberry pie, a container of whipped cream, and some sourdough bread. All I need is a protein source and some milk and I am set for food for tonight and all day tomorrow.
Took an Uber to my motel. Tomorrow I will do a Walmart run, then I’ll get back on trail the next day.
Seven states and 900 miles down, seven states and about 1300 miles to go.
Day 77, Zero day in Delaware Water Gap/East Stroudsburg. Ate pie, bought a knee brace and resupply at Walmart, caught up with friends via internet/social media, rewatched episodes of The Gilded Age.
Anyone going through Delaware Water Gap MUST stop at Village Farmer and Bakery on Broad Street. Their pies are made right there, daily. They have every kind you can imagine, and they are DELICIOUS.
