Day 78, 20.1 miles.
Delaware Water Gap/SOBO mile 901.1 to Leroy A. Smith Shelter area/SOBO mile 921.2.
Pennsylvania! Also know as Rocksylvania and Painsylvania. The northern 150 miles contain lots of stretches of small to medium sized rocks that cover the trail and make footing “fun.” Gotta watch where you step. I have dealt with this kind of terrain before while redlining the Whites, so it doesn’t bother me that much yet. Also, those stretches today were broken up by regular dirt trail. So it’s not like it is nonstop rocks. At least, it wasn’t like that today.
Got back on trail at 6:45am and climbed 1000 feet, then walked along a ridge for the next 15 miles. The rocks didn’t kick in until five or six miles later and, again, those parts were often interrupted with dirt stretches, so the day felt mild in spite of the tricky footing. Also helped that the temps topped out at only 72, and there were no bugs. Am loving this weather!
Had a few views of the Delaware River and the valley.
Descended 500 feet to a road crossing and filled all my water bottles at Gateway Motel. I’ll be dry camping tonight. Water will be difficult over the next few days, and I will need to rely on water caches from trail angels. The owner of the motel, Amini, was super kind and gave me a free banana. Told me to sit, stay, and rest as long as I wanted. I bought some snacks from her. Good prices.
Left, ascended 500 feet, and hiked another five miles to the shelter area. The tenting space is far from the shelter and isolated. I think I will be the only one here tonight. If so, it will be only my third time on the AT camping alone.
Later – looks like I won’t be alone after all. Here comes another hiker. Chopsticks is his name. He is a flipflopper too. He started from the Delaware Water Gap and just flipped from Maine.
Day 79. 20 miles
Leroy A. Smith Shelter/SOBO mile 921.2 to tentsite at SOBO mile 941.2 (south of Palmerton).
At 3:30am, two deer decided to eat vegetation that was right by my tent and a foot away from my head. They scampered off when I made noise only to return again minutes later. Couldn’t get back to sleep.
Had all different kinds of toughness today. First there were the PA small rocks where footing is tricky, then came a long section where most of the path was overgrown and so I couldn’t see what I was about to step on. After that was some rocky footing in open woods in direct sunlight, then came sketchy down-scrambling of slabs and boulders that made me think I was back in NH. Last, I climbed up to a ridge and walked for miles up top in the full sun. And oh yeah, water is hard to come by.
Woke up and headed out before Chopsticks was out of his tent. I am not sure how many miles he’s doing each day, so I may or may not see him later.
All I saw were my feet for much of the first part of the day. The rocks aren’t that bad, and they do not cover the entirety of the trail for every mile, but when they are there, it’s impossible to look at anything else but your feet. The overgrown parts were especially irritating. A lot of the trail today was narrow with thick and overgrown vegetation on both sides.
Two trail angels left water caches for hikers at different road crossings today. Without the trail angels providing hikers with water these past few weeks, we’d all be toast. Almost all the creeks and springs are dry.
Walked along a hot, dusty, and rocky ridge before eventually climbing down through what felt like Northern Presidential territory in terms of giant boulders. Had one difficult down climb that involved me throwing my poles and backpack down 25 feet and then scrambling down unencumbered. Thankfully, nothing broke, and nothing tumbled all the way down the entire cliff-thingy. Finally made it down the whole way, walked across a bridge over the Lehigh River, then climbed back up to another ridge until I reached the only spring today that still has water. Sat and drank two and a half liters of electrolytes., then filled my bottles. There will be no more water available until tomorrow afternoon, so now I will have to ration my hydration.
Continued another 500 feet up the ridge and walked in full sun for miles until the trail finally went into an area with taller trees. Had great views while walking up there, though.
Am now in a tiny tentsite right beside the trail. In PA, that’s allowed. Am not eating a full dinner because I don’t want to get too thirsty. I should have enough water to get to the next source tomorrow afternoon, but only if I don’t drink anymore tonight.
It’s pretty up here, camping on the ridge. Hope nothing wakes me up tonight.
Day 80, 10.4 miles
Tentsite at SOBO mile 941.2 to The Lookout Hostel/SOBO mile 951.6.
OK, I’m getting annoyed at the rocks now.
The day started nice and easy. Woke up before sunrise at my nice little campsite on the wooded ridge. Haven’t seen any slugs on my water bottle or bear canister in a long time, but I do now see tiny silvery little worms on my camp shoes in the morning. They curl up as soon as they detect movement.
Anyway, packed up my dry tent, set off, had some nice woods walking, and then eventually of course the trail turned into the rocks for which Pennsylvania is famous. These stretches of trail that have rocks – sometimes they’re just little rocks that are annoying and you have to watch your step. Other times you’re boulder hopping just like so many trails in the White Mountains. So it’s nothing I haven’t experienced before, it’s just that I’m kind of over it now and looking forward to dirt trail. But hey, I’m aware I have to get past the next hundred miles or so before I see consistent dirt trail, so it’s just time to suck it up buttercup.
I had a couple of climbs that led to some really nice views over the valley, and I met a couple of people looking for hawks. There’s a “Hawk Watch” in this area between now and November, so I can expect to see a lot of birdwatchers up on the ridges over the next few days.
The trail isn’t always rocky. It could be tricky footing for, I don’t know, half a mile or a mile, but then there’s a lovely dirt path again, so it’s not a consistent rocky trail for mile after mile after mile. It’s rocky for a little while and then much easier for a long while and then rocky/bouldery and annoying again.
The temperature was cool, and the sky was overcast today, which I appreciated.
I had a relatively short day at 10.5 miles because I wanted to stay at The Lookout Hostel. The hostel is right off the trail, and it’s a cozy and inexpensive place to sleep for the night. It also has some resupply.
I’m pretty tired. Both my knees hurt. I think my uninjured knee is trying to compensate for the injured one, and all the rock hopping is twisting my legs every which way.
Met the co-owner of the hostel, Crazy Hair. He’s a really nice guy. Ate a ton of Chinese food. Bought a bunch of milk and had peach ice cream from the hostel.
Day 81. 22 miles
The Lookout Hostel/SOBO mile 951.6 to tentsite north of Port Clinton/SOBO mile 973.6.
Everything hurts. I think I need to keep my daily hiking miles between 15 and 20 regardless of the terrain. That seems to be the optimal amount for me. Any more than that and my feet and legs ache.
Made myself coffee and pancakes at The Lookout Hostel this morning, then got on trail around 6:45. Lovely cool morning. I sure do appreciate the lack of bugs, too. Bugs have not been an issue since I flipped south from Maine.
Terrain wasn’t bad today. Mostly dirt/dirt road. There were several small climbs with jumbles of small boulders, and there were also some stretches of trail with those PA rocks, but for the most part everything thing was manageable. Climbs today included Balance Rocks, Dan”s Pulpit, and the Pinnacle & Pulpit Rock. Views were of the valley/farmland below.
The Pinnacle and Pulpit Rock form a popular loop hike by Port Clinton, and I saw at least 60 day hikers. Everyone seemed to be having a good time. Lots of kids.
This camping spot tonight is literally less than seven feet from the trail, but I am too tired to go any farther. There was a shelter a mile and a half back, but it is close to the parking lot for the popular loop hike, and apparently it gets a ton of rowdy local folks who throw beer bottles everywhere. Figured it would be safer for me to go past that area and camp where the day hikers don’t usually trek.
The outside of my upper left thigh hurts and I don’t know why. It feels like someone punched it, but no one did, and I didn’t fall on it or run into anything. Weird.
Day 82, 4.6 miles
Tentsite north of Port Clinton/SOBO mile 973.6. To SOBO mile 978.2 in Port Clinton (PA).
Woke up frequently during the night. Couldn’t get comfy. Then I woke up when I normally do only to close my eyes and fall back asleep, so I got on trail an hour later than usual.
My left thigh pain disappeared overnight. Knee is still sore. The trail was not rocky – it was fairly standard – as I headed down toward Port Clinton, but I felt like hiking took great effort regardless. Something feels off. I am tired, and I feel distraught.
Got into Port Clinton and took a one block detour to a local candy store, thinking some sugar might do the trick. I have a way of not getting enough carbs when I hike since I focus so much on protein. Bought some chocolate covered pretzels as well as different kinds of hiker trail mix and some cinnamon covered pecans. Sat on the bench outside and realized I did not want to go any farther today.
There is a 1000-foot climb out of Port Clinton to continue the trail. It is a cool day with no bugs, and 1000-foot climbs aren’t much to me anymore…usually. But now? Today? My whole body said NOPE. Also, there’s no water up there for at least 12 miles, so I’d have to haul up extra water on the climb. Not one cell of me wants to do that. Not today, anyway.
Decided to get a motel a trail town away, stay there tonight, then come back here in the morning and slackpack nearly 24 miles toward that motel tomorrow. That distance will make me feel better about only doing 4.6 miles today, and I won’t be carrying much tomorrow so the miles should feel easier. Found the number of a local shuttle driver on the FarOut app and gave him a call. He’s going to help me out with transportation.
Later – at the motel. Got some food at the Dollar General next door and am eating a ton of protein. Also got milk for calcium. Also various forms of carbs, plus grape juice. Hoping today’s food and a night of good sleep will put me in better hiking shape for tomorrow.
Day 83, 23.6 miles
Port Clinton/SOBO mile 978.2 to PA Route 501/SOBO mile 1001.8
Reached the 1000-mile point today! Apart from that, the day felt miserable.
Yeah, I know, I am fortunate to be able to be out here doing this at all. But I am going to whine and complain when I want to anyway, because I think that is helpful for those wanting to do the Appalachian Trail. You need to hear about the bad as well as the good.
It started out well. Darrick, the cool and reliable local shuttle driver, picked me up at 6am and drove me back to Port Clinton. Was back on trail at 6:40.
Went through the rest of Port Clinton, past the historic railroad, and up the thousand foot climb which, in the early morning and after a good night’s sleep, didn’t feel bad at all. Helps that I carried only water, food, and a few emergency items. The rest of my gear was at the motel.
The entire rest of the day was irritating. Only a couple views of farmland, and they were pretty, BUT – most of the time I was looking at the ground as I stepped over, around, and on a gazillion small rocks that cover much of the trail and hurt my feet.
In days past, those rocky bits of trail were interspersed with long dirt stretches. Today, that did not seem to be the case. Furthermore, there were plenty of overgrown bits where I could not see what I was about to step on. It was a 24-mile irritating-as-hell slog.
On the plus side, ascents were mild (except for the first climb in the morning), I counted exactly three mosquitoes, the temperatures never rose above the mid-70s, my left upper thigh pain is totally gone, my right knee still hurts but isn’t slowing me down, and I never saw any snakes.
FarOut is riddled with comments about rattlesnakes and copperheads all over the rocks directly on the trail pretty much all throughout northern PA. I hope won’t see any snakes – it’s enough having to walk on all these rocks without having to worry about stepping on venomous nope-ropes.
I am now seeing why PA is the least favorite state of AT thruhikers. One or two days of this was fine. But now I am so over it, and I still have 44.6 miles of this rocky hell to go. So basically two and a half more hiking days. I have been told the trail south of Duncannon is much easier. Looking forward to that.
But first, a zero. I am a day early for this zero, and I’ve only done 80 miles since my last one instead of my usual 90-100, but I don’t care. I want a day to rest and pout and mentally recharge, and I want that day right now.
I have heard of thruhikers skipping much of Pennsylvania. I used to shake my head at that. Though I have not and will not skip any part of the AT, I feel less judgy now to those who have said to-hell-with-this and yellow-blazed (gotten car rides) past this crap. Northern PA is a PITA.
Oh yeah, a couple more fun things.
First, I stepped on a large chunk of glass that went right through my sole but, thankfully, stopped short of puncturing my compression stocking or my heel. Dug it out with my pocketknife. I now have a dime-sized hole in the bottom of my shoe.
Second, I thought I could hitch back to my motel at the end of my hike today. Wrong! Tons of cars passed me, but no one stopped or offered a ride. No Ubers or Lyfts, either. Did not have it in me to walk the eight miles on highway back to the motel. Called my shuttle driver from the morning, but he was busy with another ride about an hour away. Ended up calling the motel, and they sent one of their staff members to come get me. The nice fellow tried to refuse payment when I offered. I insisted, and he eventually took the money.
I will spend tomorrow eating ice cream and gathering the mental fortitude to finish this damn section of trail. VERY MUCH looking forward to reaching Duncannon.
Day 84: Zero day in Pine Grove. Ate ice cream and felt sorry for myself.
Day 85: 17.6 miles. PA Route 501/SOBO Mile 1001.8 to Tent site at SOBO Mile 1019.4.
Felt a bit better today, though still am in a bit of a funk. Maybe it’s hiker burnout? This too shall pass.
Darrick the local shuttle driver got me back on trail at 6:45. Had a nice view just 0.1 mile in, then another one a couple tenths after that, then the day was mostly me watching my feet again. The rocks are diminishing though, and I think the worst is over. The day after tomorrow I will reach Duncannon, and then the “Rocksylvania” segments of PA may finally be in my rear view mirror.
Crossed a usually-flooded area that beavers restructured, but since there’s been a drought it was easy to avoid dunking my feet. Lots of mud and dry logs instead of water.
Highlight of the day was meeting Michelle Thomas who drove an hour just to give me trail magic. She sets up trail magic for the NOBOs each year, but it is harder to do trail magic for SOBOs since there are fewer of us and we are spread out along the trail. She knew I was crossing a certain road though and she drove and set up everything even though she might not see many other hikers today. That was very kind of her, and I greatly appreciated her generosity. She made me a root beer float, and I ate some of her homemade baked goods and home grown cherry tomatoes. YUM!
My spirits were much lifted after that. Also got texts from Fin and Silver Bullet, and it was lovely hearing from them.
Am tenting at a place just off trail by a creek. There is orange residue in the water. Ugh.
Later – a SOBO named Fuego just showed up! She said she was happy to see me as she has been on her own for a while. She also said Chopsticks is behind her and might stay at this site tonight. Had a nice time talking with Fuego before turning in for the evening.
Day 86, 17.9 miles
Tenting site at SOBO mile 1019.4 to Peter’s Mountain Shelter/SOBO mile 1037.3
The goal was to make it to a shelter before a forecasted downpour began. Woke up at 5am and was on trail by 6, as was Fuego, the SOBO who camped with me last night.
Trail was unremarkable today. Skipped the one viewpoint since FarOut notes say the rocks are full of copperheads and rattlesnakes. Chopsticks caught up with me, he had camped just north of us. We leapfrogged each other throughout the day.
Got to the shelter right after the first raindrops fell. Chopsticks arrived later, then Fuego, then a NOBO section hiker. Then the rain stopped…looks like the forecasted thunderstorms with 1.5 inches of rain isn’t going to happen after all.
Only my second time sleeping in a shelter on the AT. This is a nice shelter with tons of space and a loft area. I took a space in the loft.
Had a nice time chatting with everyone tonight.
Tomorrow I go through Duncannon and hopefully (please God) leave the “Rocksylvania” portion of this state!
Day 87, 18.5 miles
Peters Mountain Shelter/SOBO mile 1037.3 to tent site/SOBO mile 1055.8 (south of Duncannon)
My morning consisted of the typical PA ridge walking in the trees with the occasional rocky ledge viewpoint. Had the typical PA rocks.
Made it down into Duncannon (yay!) and walked through the town. Signs everywhere saying “Welcome, AT Hikers!” That was nice, I have not seen such signs in previous towns. Felt good.
Bought some resupply at Kind of Outdoorsy and also swapped my Darn Toughs for a new pair (certain stores do a free sock swap). I’m now on my third pair of socks and my third pair of shoes…and I will need to replace the shoes somewhere around Harper’s Ferry.
Was warned of a SOBO who’s about 100 miles behind me. He writes anti-Semitic and anti-woman diatribes in the shelter log books. I was shown his photo and I know his trail name, and he has been reported to the ATC. He has not been violent toward anyone…yet. Still though, word is spreading along the trail, and at some point he will likely pass me since he apparently hikes big miles each day (over 20). He’s been on trail since Maine with no incidents except his dumb-ass writings, so let’s hope it stays that way.
Met two SOBOs, Croc and Gator. They stayed in town last night.
Ate a massive turkey sub at Momma Pat’s before heading out of town. Also drank two Sprites, a chocolate milk, and a liter of water.
Climbed the rock steps to Hawk Rock, a gorgeous viewpoint and understandable day hiker favorite, then continued ridge walking. Drank a lot of water but still felt dehydrated. It’s kind of warm today.
Became irritated because these damn rocks were supposed to stop after Duncannon. But nope!! They are still here, it’s the same as it has been for days. When do they stop???
Found a campsite close to a stream that actually has running water (so many are dry with this drought!). Fuego is staying back in Duncannon tonight. Chopsticks might as well. The two SOBOs I met earlier just passed my site, they want to hike farther since town is only 7.5 miles back. It’ll likely be just me here tonight.
