Day 88, 10 miles
Tentsite at SOBO Mile 1055.9 to US Route 11 (northeast of Carlisle, PA)/SOBO Mile 1065.9
The good news – the PA rocks have significantly diminished! Hiked a couple hills, went through a couple farm pastures, and voila! The rocks took a reprieve. The rest of my short hiking day took me on a flat path through wooded urban areas northeast of Carlisle.
The bad news? I am tired, my feet hurt, and my knees ache. My mood is dour.
There is an inexpensive motel half a mile from the trail. I booked, and they let me check in early (11am!). There’s a convenience store two buildings away. I bought a ton of food, showered, did laundry, and ATE.
When I feel down – and I have felt down a lot since entering PA – it is because I am not getting enough sleep, nutrients, or both.
Over the next three hours, I consumed a turkey sub, a chicken sub, a liter of milk, 16 ounces of cranberry-apple juice, a carton of Ben & Jerry’s, four chocolate-covered marshmallows, and two Ginger Ales. Yes – that is the amount of calories a thru-hiker needs when running at a deficit, as I currently am. I’m burning an average of 4500 calories a day according to FarOut’s Metabolic Equivalent Task calculator, and on trail I usually eat between 2500 and 3000 calories. This means whenever I am in town, I eat to make up the deficit. None of this is conscious, I am just doing the math and realizing this now. This explains why I feel so depleted and NEED town every few days, and why I usually feel so much better afterward, even if I do sleep well on trail (and lately, I have not been sleeping that well). As far as my weight, I know have lost some, but I don’t look all that different. I’d like to keep it that way. Losing too much weight is a real concern for thru-hikers.
Could I carry more food? Yes, but then I would burn more calories since I’d be carrying more weight. Carrying more weight is harder on the joints as well, plus backpacking is just plain nicer when your pack is as light as possible.
It’s a tricky balance. Some weeks I get it just right, other weeks I don’t.
Thank God the worst of those rocks are behind me.
Day 89, 27.3 miles due to escape from weird dude at campsite. 28.1 if you include the resupply detour and getting back on trail from last night’s hotel.
US Route 11/SOBO Mile 1065.9 to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel/SOBO Mile 1093.2.
I intended to go 20 miles, not 27.3. Had to pack up camp and hike another 7.3 miles to a hostel after an encounter with a guy who may or may not have been harmless but was definitely creeping me out. But first thing’s first.
Grabbed two small breakfast sandwiches from the nearby convenience store before getting back on trail at 6:45. Today’s hiking was quite nice, and my spirits were much improved after yesterday’s nearo and massive calorie intake.
A couple hours of pleasant woods-walking led me to the town of Boiling Springs. Stopped by Cafe 101 and ate Second Breakfast in the form of a spinach omelet and a mango smoothie. Walked by the town’s pretty lake and entered some pastures and fields. Next came some wooded hills with maybe 1500 or 1600 feet of total elevation gain..? Had a nice bit of bouldery terrain on Rocky Ridge. Took a short detour to Green Mountain General Store and got a turkey sandwich, some crème-filled pastries, milk, a Ginger Ale, and more general resupply items. Walked the nice 1.4 miles from there to the shelter area. It had been a pleasant 20-miles day, and I felt good. Probably had something to do with all the food I ate. Today I properly fueled the tank.
Saw a guy coming from the north. He took the 0.2-mile spur path to the shelter as I scoped the area closer to the trail (and the stream) for good tenting spots. Started setting up my tent in one of the few flat areas, and within a few minutes the guy came back. He walked right up to me saying he wanted to camp in that area too since the spur path to the shelter was too long. I said sure, then asked if he was a section hiker.
He got defensive at this and said, “That’s a loaded question!” He rambled a bit about his general hiking, then said he was out for eight days. I asked him his trail name, he said, “Nobody.” I knew a NOBO Nobody, so that trail name is not unheard of, but this guy just plain seemed off.
He sat and watched me finish setting up my tent and putting my things inside. He then set up his tent with his front door directly facing my vestibule. He smoked constantly (annoying when the smoke comes your way, which it did 100% of the time). He kept trying to get me to come very close to him by asking me various questions. Could I check his neck for a bee sting? Could I look at his phone and tell him what mileage marker we were at (he had just told me he knew this section of trail well)? He spoke in a rushed and nervous manner. He kept coming into my tenting space for no reason to just stand there. I did manage to clean up a bit and change clothes when he went to the stream for water.
He was not aggressive, but he was just OFF. I can’t explain it well. I can tell you every alarm bell in my body was going off, though. There was no way I was going to be able to sleep there. I did not want to leave as I was tired. Eventually I realized I really did need to go.
He went to get more water at one point, and I quickly changed back into my hiking clothes and packed up. He returned and became agitated when he saw me finishing the packing, and he said in an exaggerated way that he should leave and not me. That he didn’t mean to frighten me. But the way he said it…again, everything felt wrong. I lied and told him some SOBO friends had just texted me and that they were at the Ironmasters Mansion and I wanted to catch up and hang out. He seemed to buy this.
So back on trail I went at 6pm to hike another 7.3 miles and 750-ish feet of elevation gain. I hiked quickly, half-worried the guy was going to pack up and follow me. As soon as I got a strong cell signal, I called the hostel and asked if I could come in late. I explained the situation. The caretaker said sure, that one of the two bunk rooms was empty, so I could arrive past the usual hiker bedtime (between 8 and 9pm) without disturbing anyone.
Going uphill felt tedious since my body wanted to be in a tent. The descent into Pine Grove Furnace State Park went quickly, and I think the state park is quite lovely but it was hard to tell because I had become “overcome by darkness” when I reached it and was using my headlamp. The Ironmasters Mansion Hostel is just past the park, as is the AT Museum and the Pine Grove Furnace Store. I arrived around 8:15, spoke with a friendly section hiker named Raincoat who helped me get situated, and now I am typing this.
This mansion is pretty cool. I will check it out and learn more of its history in the morning. It’s late now, and I need to get to sleep. Will report all this to the ATC tomorrow.
Day 90, 19.8 miles
Ironmasters Mansion Hostel/SOBO Mile 1093.2 to US Route 30 (Thru It All hostel)/SOBO Mile 1113.0
Got out of bed “late” since I wanted to lounge a bit after yesterday’s unplanned hikeathon. Spoke more with Raincoat, the kind section hiker who greeted me when I arrived last night. Finally left at 7am.
Gorgeous and cool morning. Nice to see what the Ironmaster’s Mansion looks like in daylight. It’s huge! Peter Ege, one of the iron masters of the Pine Grove Iron Works, built it for his wife in 1829. It’s a lovely space.
The trail is definitely getting easier. Lots of ascents and descents of course, but the trail itself has calmed down. Meaning, there are still rocks, but they are the normal kind and not an evil shoe-puncturing carpet. Leaves are changing color now, and I believe it is because of the drought. It’s early for normal fall colors.
Crossed paths with two female NOBO section hikers. I told them about the man from yesterday and showed them his photo. They thanked me and told me about a guy they ran into who is carrying a machete along with way too much gear.
WTF, Pennsylvania??
The good news is the trail itself remained delightful today. And when I did pass Machete Man, he politely said hello and moved aside. Never saw him again.
Had lunch at a shelter where I met one other SOBO and a section hiker. Both very nice fellows who restored my faith in the fact that most of the people on trail are mentally stable.
Reached the official halfway point of the AT! It used to be back in Pine Grove near the Ironmasters Mansion. The length of the AT changes every year though, with little sections getting rerouted in this state or that state. So now the official halfway sign is farther south. But this year, even that isn’t at the right spot (guess no one moved it for 2025). Took my photo with the sign anyway, then celebrated again next to a tree once I reached SOBO mile 1098.7.
Saw the nicest shelter ever a few miles from the end of my hiking day. Quarry Gap. It looked like a little cabin and had flower pots, flowering shrubs, a gravel walkway, and a wooden bench swing. So nice!
Decided to spend the night at another hostel. Now that NOBO season is over, a lot of the bunk rooms in hostels are empty or near-empty, so I can pay a small amount for a bunk and possibly have the whole room to myself.
Staying at Thru It All, which is a nice room in a Pentecostal church. The people are kind, the beds are super comfy, and they don’t talk about their faith/push it on you. It’s a lovely space. I saw their private rooms – one is decorated like it’s Christmas and so very cute! The other has a country decor. Both are lovely, but I am sticking with the bunk room since it’s half the price of a private room and I’m the only one here.
Spent some time rolling out my IT band. That helps. I need to do that multiple times a day from now on.
Maryland is 17.9 miles away. I want to reach it tomorrow.
Day 91, 18.1 miles
US Route 30 (Thru It All hostel)/SOBO Mile 1113.0 to Pen Mar Park/SOBO Mile 1131.1 MARYLAND!
The Rev at Thru It All got me back on trail around 7:45. The trail today was more rocky than smooth, but the rocks were the manageable kind and not the jagged carpet of Legos I dealt with for so long.
A few good ups and downs today, I think a bit less than 2000 feet of elevation gain overall.
Leaves are turning. I think it’s early for the season and caused by the drought.
Got to the Mason-Dixon Line…Maryland, baby! Can’t say I am sad to leave Pennsylvania.
The trail immediately turned into lovely gravel as soon as I crossed the state line. I hope that is a good omen of trail conditions to come.
Ended my hiking day at Pen Mar Park, a lovely public area with a stellar view to the east. The locals were so sweet! Three different people asked if I needed help or a ride somewhere.
Am staying at the nearby Sunflower Cottage hostel tonight. The owner, Soolah, came and picked me up from Pen Mar. Her home is lovely. Crafted ceramic floors, beautiful murals, handcrafts everywhere. She did all the work herself, and it all looks beautiful. I forgot to get photos, but I will put her link in the comments so you can get a glimpse for yourself.
I ate a massive dinner at Rocky’s just around the corner, then came back and spoke with Soolah for a while. Her two cats greeted me and hung out. Feels good here.
Day 92, 23.5 miles
Pen Mar Park/SOBO Mile 1131.1 to Dahlgren Backpack Campground (MD)/SOBO mile 1154.6
Soolah at the Sunflower Cottage made me an excellent breakfast – cheesy omelette, French toast with homemade fruit spread, bacon, coffee – and took me back to Pen Mar Park.
Since I want to get to Harper’s Ferry in two days, and since Maryland rules require hikers to sleep in designated sites, I could either do 23.5 miles today and 18 miles tomorrow or 18 today and 23.5 tomorrow. I chose to get the 23.5 done today.
I am sad to say I am not finished with rocks, but, for the most part, these are kinder, gentler rocks. Not so much the sharp Lego kind. Also, the farther south I got, the more dirt path the trail became.
I had quite a few steep ascents, which surprised me a bit because people had told me Maryland was flat. NOTHING on the AT is flat. Okay, I think there were a few miles in southern PA that were actually flat….but that is it. The AT is a constant roller coaster, with some ups and downs lengthier, steeper, and rockier than others.
I did have a good day though. I actually enjoyed the trail again. My shoes are now falling apart (new ones await me in Harper’s Ferry) and my feet and knees hurt, but I enjoyed the woods and early fall colors regardless.
Lots of women day hikers today! Tons! Not men, just women. Was kind of nice.
Saw the first Washington Monument. It was built in 1827.
Arrived at Dahlgren Backpack Campground and wow! This is wonderful! Nice flat sites and bathrooms with flush toilets…and a shower with hot water! And outlets! And water! It is a backpacker campsite, no one can drive in and use it, it is just for long distance hikers. This is the best campsite I have ever been to, and tonight I have it all to myself.
My feet are so incredibly sore. My new shoes should help. My current ones have lost all support. Will also take a zero in Harper’s Ferry, that should help too. In the meantime, I am upping my nightly CBD dose from 10mg to 25mg.
Day 93, 18.1 miles
Dahlgren Backpack Campground (MD)/SOBO mile 1154.6 to hotel in Harper’s Ferry (WV)/SOBO mile 1172.7
Did not sleep well last night. Lots of foot pain. Also, though my right knee is feeling better, my left one now aches. I get new shoes today at Harper’s Ferry, and that should help a lot. My current ones have lost all support. I will stretch more each day too.
Once I got moving for the day, I found myself really enjoying the trail for the first time in quite a while. Lovely trees, the rocks weren’t the LEGO kind, and moderate ascents. Some Civil War history, too.
There was an outlook where one can see the area referenced in The Blair Witch Project! Apparently, in the movie, the young filmmakers got lost and were killed by the witch in the wooded area below the viewpoint.
The trail because touristy past Weverton Cliffs, then became part of the flat C&O Canal Towpath for the three miles heading into Harper’s Ferry. Saw a big ole turtle crossing the towpath and got a video. Lots of bikes zooming about too.
The walk over the Potomac River into Harper’s Ferry was gorgeous. Lovely scenery of the rocky cliffs over the water and of the old historic town. There is a lot to see in Harper’s Ferry, and I will be back when I am not hiking the AT to better experience it.
Visited the ATC Headquarters and got my photo taken for their hiker logbook. Also picked up my shoes, which I had mailed there. They have a nice hiker lounge, and I rested there a while.
Leapfrogged with a SOBO named First Class today. He’s a quiet guy who just got back on trail after three days of visiting family.
Am now at the nearby Quality Inn where I will take a zero tomorrow. I may even take a double zero because my legs and feet really hurt.
Hard to believe it is time for me to get my permit for the Shenandoahs! Will do that online tomorrow.
Days 94 and 95: Zero days in Harper’s Ferry. I will return after my thruhike to explore the town. I do nothing on my zero days but eat and rest.