Day 29. Hikers Welcome Hostel to Beaver Brook Trailhead. 9.5 miles
Woke up early and was out of the hostel by 5:30. Hiked up the 1.4 miles between Route 25 and Glencliff parking area and met NH friend Suzanne for breakfast. Suzanne was so kind! She brought me a sausage egg McMuffin, juice, soda, candy…and a homemade “Prom Queen” bracelet! I appreciated all of this very much, and I felt fueled and happy heading up Moosilauke afterward.
I have been up Glencliff Trail quite a few times, but mostly during winter. The ascent was a nice reminder of how unrelentingly steep and rocky White Mountain trails can be. Nevertheless, it did not feel too bad, and I made it up with a full thruhiker pack in two hours. Had some views before the clouds rolled in. Not windy at all up there, which was odd. The air was still cooler than the air in the valley though. Also, no bugs!
I love the feel of White Mountain trails once you reach a certain height in the Whites. Cooler, pine-scented, closer to the Heavens.
The whole mountain felt like an old friend. I am grateful it once again allowed me safe passage.
Went down Beaver Brook Trail (the AT), which was more fun than I’d remembered. Steep, treacherous, all that good stuff. Made it just fine with my full thruhiker backpack.
Got to the parking area and decided to arrive at my lodging two days early. I am a day ahead of schedule making it to Beaver Brook trailhead plus, instead of taking two days to do the Kinsmans traverse, I can stay at the lodging tonight and then slackpack the Kinsmans tomorrow. It will feel weird slackpacking, like I am cheating somehow. I did not think I was going to slackpack on the AT…but why not. So instead of spending two nights at the lodging, I will be spending four. Two for my planned rest day, one for the Kinsman slackpack, and one more just because I am a day early. I am probably not explaining this well.
My lodging is the Old Colony Ski Club in N Woodstock. The owner is super nice, and I have a private room. She is only charging me half the rate since they aren’t busy yet (the NOBO bubble is still at least three weeks behind me). Spoke for a while with a German guy in the common area who is quitting the trail. He doesn’t like the AT. The heat and humidity are getting to him, and he hasn’t had any views (socked in at all viewpoints/summits). He came all this way, hiking over 1800 miles, and now that he’s arrived at the most scenic part, he is quitting. He and his wife leave for Germany tomorrow.
Day 30. Beaver Brook parking area to Liberty Springs Trailhead. 16.4 miles. 17 miles when you include the walk to the LS parking area. Just under 5000 feet of elevation gain.
Got dropped off at Beaver Brook parking area at 6am by Jennifer, the kind host at Old Colony Ski Club. The weather was cool and misty, which was fabulous. No bugs! Just enough mist to cool me down! Perfect weather for this climb.
I slackpacked today for the first time on the AT. At first I felt like I was cheating, but as the day wore on and the relentlessly steep/straight-up boulder climbs continued, I was glad I left most of my pack contents at the OCSC. I had done this trail from the BB parking area to South Kinsman and back as a day hike years ago, and I remember it kicking my ass. It kicked my ass today too, though I went down the other side instead of doing an out-and-back. The trail is traditionally steep all the way to Eliza Brook Shelter, then, after a gorgeous mile walking by water, it just goes straight up climbing over boulders for miles.
Socked in at the summit, but that’s okay, I’ve seen the views before. I was grateful for the lack of heat and humidity.
Went on to N Kinsman and took a photo of me by the boulder that marks the summit. I had told my younger daughter Sage last time we hiked this mountain together that when I reached this spot while doing the AT I would take a photo and send it to her. I did, and she responded with a heart and some comments that it was so cool/crazy that I was now here.
I had forgotten how ledgy the descent down N Kinsman to the Kinsman Pond shelter was – took forever. The caretaker was out so I couldn’t get an AT thruhiker pass. That pass gives you discounts on hut and campground stays through the Whites.
F’n Jimmy Trail to the hut took forever too. I had forgotten how ledgy and steep that trail is as well.
Finally made it to the hut and asked about the thru-hiker passes. They didn’t have any. Arg.
Cascade Brook Trail down to I93 was another jumble of rocks. My feet hurt and my knees complained.
The last mile to the highway was a lovely stretch of dirt. My feet and legs felt happier, and I picked up my pace.
Got under the highway to the start of Liberty Springs Trail, then walked to the LS parking area and texted Jennifer to come pick me up.
Got back, showered, and hung out with three Harper’s Ferry FFs named Shadow, Mosey, and Neon. They’re nice people. Jennifer and her husband threw a Full Moon party with tons of free and delicious food, and we all sat around outside by a fire eating. It was nice way to end a long and tough hiking day.
Days 31 and 32, Double zero at the Old Colony Ski Club in N Woodstock, NH
Got here a day early and had plans to see my daughters the next day, so that meant I was forced into a double zero. Not that I minded one bit. Might be just what my body needs before powering through the rest of the Whites without slackpacking.
Did laundry, ate, repaired a tear in my dress, rested, caught up with friends, watched TV. Saw my daughters on Day 32, took them to lunch, talked for a few hours. Good times.
My older daughter Alex is staying off social media for the time being and requested I not post her current image, hence the blurred out face on the photo.
Only thing I regret is that I did not make the trip to neighboring Lincoln to see Steve Smith at his Mountain Wanderer Bookstore. Steve is soon retiring. I did stop in and see him before I sold everything and left NH in April 2024, but it would have been nice to have stopped in one final time. Steve, if you happen to read this, thanks again for all you have done for the Northeast hiking community. Your store was a beloved institution and will be greatly missed.
Day 33. Liberty Springs Trailhead to Garfield Ridge Shelter. 10.2 miles, 11.1 if you include the trail from the parking lot.
Said my goodbyes to the good folks at the Old Sky Colony and was dropped off at the trailhead by 6am.
Liberty Springs Trail was not as difficult as I’d remembered. Definitely not as difficult as coming up the western/southern side of South Kinsman.
Got to the ridge and flew along. It felt great to be up there, and once I hit treeline, everything felt right with the world. Cool breezes, no heat, no bugs.
Clouds flew over/through the summits, so sometimes views were obscured, and sometimes peaks and landscapes were visible. The wind blew just strongly enough to blow my clothes around but not knock me over. It was glorious.
The descent back into treeline felt onerous, as did the climb up Garfield.
Garfield was completely socked in, so I skipped going all the way up the summit ledges/boulders. The descent from Garfield to Garfield Ridge Shelter felt just as onerous as the ascent with massive rocks and to deal with…and about 0.3 mile from the shelter junction I slipped and fell headfirst down the rocks.
My leg arm instinctively shot out and absorbed the fall. Nothing hurts, but my arm is scraped up. As I continued my descent, I noticed I was having more trouble balancing. Time to call it a day.
I’ve never stayed at this shelter area before. It is high up on Mt. Garfield and therefore has a wonderful breeze coming through. The caretaker, an amiable young woman named Mac, told me I might have to allow someone else to fit their tent on this platform along with mine. I therefore pitched as far to one side as possible. I had to slant my tent a bit, and it looks a bit awkward, but I think it should hold up through the night.
Bought a thruhiker pass. That gives you discounts at the White Mountain campsites and AMC membership prices at the huts. Also gives you a free baked good at a hut.
Saw Vancouver tonight. She will stay at Zealand Falls hut tomorrow. I am uncertain if she is then staying at Mizpah or if she is going to the Highland Center first. If Mizpah, then I will see her again there.
Tomorrow’s forecast calls for heavy rains beginning in the afternoon. I’d like to end up wherever I am staying for the night before all that starts. Fingers crossed.
Day 34, Garfield Ridge Shelter to Ethan Pond Shelter. 14.5 miles
Woke up thirsty since I was too lazy to get water after I set up camp last night. Packed up, ate, then drank a ton by the water source on the way out.
I had forgotten how gnarly the trail is between Garfield and Galehead. Nothing but rocks, roots, and boulders. Always tricky footing and places where one could easily break a leg. Eventually made my way to Galehead Hut. Bought two electrolyte mixes and downed one of them with a liter of water immediately – felt much better after that. Also used the thruhiker pass I bought yesterday to get a free baked good (blueberry crumble). Said hi to Grandolf, a thruhiker I have been seeing off and on, then started the steep, rocky, arduous climb up South Twin.
The climb was not nearly as bad as I’d remembered. Maybe my legs are getting stronger. Last time I did this part was in the winter with my daughter Sage and I was breaking trail and falling into spruce traps, cursing away.
Socked in on the summit, so I didn’t stay long. The Twinway came next – more rocks and boulders and roots of course, because that is what White Mountain trails are – boulders and rocks and roots, always climbing and descending needing hands and hoping you don’t slip and break something.
Made it to the intersection for Guyot and again, socked in. That’s okay, I have seen the views before. I did feel badly for Vancouver and Grandolf who were behind me somewhere. I wanted them to have nice views.
Did the trek down to Zealand Hut and oh my, once again I had forgotten how arduous it all is. Constant boulder climbing/hopping, tricky footing, etc.
Finally made it to the hut after a million years and bought a delicious slice of pumpkin cheesecake. The hut croo gave me a free pancake and half an entire pitcher of cranberry juice. They were trying to get rid of those items as they were breakfast leftovers, and I was happy to oblige. I asked if they had room for me this evening since the forecast calls for heavy rains and thunderstorms in the afternoon, but they were sold out for the night.
Continued on my way five more miles to Ethan Pond Shelter. The trail between Zealand Falls Hut and Ethan Pond Shelter has some beautifully flat dirt stretches and some lovely views. The closer you get to the shelter, the more rotting bog bridges and bugs, though. Still, it was much easier terrain than what I had been dealing with all day, and I hiked those five miles quickly.
Got in, got my tent set up, paid the caretaker, and here comes the storms! I am lying in my tent right now listening to the thunder booming overhead. I am so grateful I got here in time to get everything set up. I had been worried the deluge would begin while I was still hiking and I would have to set everything up in heavy rain while soaking wet, but the timing worked out perfectly. Am very happy, everything but the outside of my tent is dry.
Tomorrow I go up to Mizpah. Looking forward to eating the hut food, it’s always good.
Day 35. Ethan Pond Shelter to Mizpah Hut. 9.3 miles that felt like 20
Got up and out by 6am and anticipated a relatively easy day. Bwa ha ha ha.
Saw Badass Buttercup on my way out. She had stayed at the shelter.
Was dripping sweat all the way down the steep and rocky trail to 302. Humdity!! Waved hello to the intersection of Willey Range Trail and had a good time thinking of all the Willey hikes my daughters and I shared.
Made it to 302 and saw Neon, Mosey, and Shadow getting dropped off from their hostel stay. Said hello, then a car pulled up and Mark Trail and his sister, Sherpa, honked at me. Mark had stayed at his sister’s and was now rejoining the trail. Nice group of people heading up Webster Cliff Trail!
I chugged a liter with electrolytes, refilled my bottle, then headed up.
Steep! Humid! Boulder scrambles, extremely steep!
Leapfrogged the other thruhikers, then got extremely thirsty. Webster is a beautiful hike with gorgeous views (not socked in today!), but the ups are relentless and I was in the direct sunlight a lot. This meant I got dehydrated and almost ran out of water. Started feeling nauseous.
Mark Trail and Sherpa caught up with me and I hiked with them for a while, then they went ahead while I slowed my pace.
No water sources until the hut…and I still had to get up and over Jackson and a bunch of other smaller hills.
Sherpa turned around on Webster as she was just out to accompany her brother for a while.
Headache and dizziness kicked in between Webster and Jackson. Lots of mud puddles in that stretch, so I sat down, finished the water I had, and took some time filtering the dirty water. Managed to get half a liter of somewhat clear water with some careful angling of my bottle.
Felt a bit better after the water and a tiny bit of food. Got to Jackson and there was Mark Trail. There were also a couple of day hikers who immediately offered me water when they heard me tell Mark Trail about my previous dizziness. They gave me half a liter and I gulped it down. So good!
Gray jays arrived! At least one, anyway. I fed him/her and the bird ate from my hand, as gray jays do. The day hikers, one of whom is a 13-year-old boy, saw this, and then the boy followed suit.
Hiked most of the trail between Jackson and Mizpah Hut with Mark Trail. He was totally out of water, so we made a good dehydrated team.
Got to Mizpah and both filled our water bottles and drank while the croo checked us in. I like staying in the huts. Also, seems like all the thru-hikers staying here are in the same room, which is nice.
Sponged myself down in the bathroom and changed into my sleeping/town clothes. Ate a ton of free breakfast leftovers – oatmeal, plus scrambled eggs that had been left out for five hours…I was so hungry and thirsty that I didn’t care. It all tasted good. Drank a ton of the free lemonade. Dried my tent. Now I am recharging stuff while lying in my bunk. Really nice to not have to worry about food storage or wet tents tonight. Also really nice to look forward to really good food.
