Day 43, Speck Pond shelter to dispersed site by East B Hill Road. 14.1 miles
Old Speck and the Baldpates were the mountains of the day.
Woke up feeling sore all over from the Mahoosucs yesterday. Still had some Mahoosucs left, though!
Had condensation and dew on my tent from camping close to water without much tree cover. Arg. Twas a pretty site, though.
Martian, Finn, and Dust left before I did. I remembered the trail to Grafton Notch from when I finished redlining a few years ago. It’s a pretty trail with all the rocky ups and downs one would except from the Mahoosucs, plus a high-up exposed ledge to climb. Also so pretty woods walking and some waterfalls.
Passed Martian and the others on the way down as they were taking a food break.
Arrived at Grafton Notch, crossed the street, and now I am in unfamiliar territory again. Love that! It was a good experience revisiting the Whites and the Mahoosucs, but I do love seeing things that are new-to-me.
Started feeling tired and out of it on the way of the Baldpates. Martian and the others caught up, and I hiked with Martian for a while, but I had to stop at water crossings to rehydrate. I think I was still tired and sore from yesterday, and therefore prone to fast dehydration.
The trail up the Baldpates was great. Steep, but with switchbacks and rock steps. None of the straight up or bouldery messes that are the Whites and the Mahoosucs.
Still, I went slowly. Extremely slowly. My body is tired. I discovered I can no longer bend my left knee all the way, and my right gluteus Maximus hurts. The Mahoosucs literally broke my ass.
I drank water and electrolytes as much as possible, but I still felt dehydrated. Caught up with Martian etc again as they were taking another break. Martian asked if I wanted to hike with them, but I was feeling tired and did not want to slow them down.
Made it up the summit of West Baldpate, went down into the little ledgy col, and then climbed the bare and steep sheer rock ledges of East Baldpate. The ledges reminded me of South Baldface in Rvans Notch. Grippy shoes were necessary! Thank goodness for my Hokas.
Once on the ledges, I took out my tent and spread it in the sun to dry. Also ate and drank some, which made me feel a bit better.
Got to the actual summit and took a photo. Great views all around today. Thankful for the clear skies.
The descent took forever! The trail was fine, it was me. The direct sunlight on the exposed Baldpates worsened my feelings of dehydration. I sat and rested and drank frequently, and then I ran out of water 0.8 mile from the next shelter and water source. At this point I felt like I wanted someone to carry me to the next road crossing and drive me to a four star hotel. I sat down and talked to myself for a while, telling myself I had to keep putting one step in front of the other until I got to the next water source.
I did just that, taking it slowly, and finally arrived at Frye Notch Lean-to. Water! Horray! I sat and drank a liter with electrolytes, then I drank half a liter more and ate some food. Gradually, I started to feel better.
A SOBO has arrived and I spoke with him a bit. He has hurt his knee – bloody bandage, the works – but was trying to continue anyway. Said he might get off trail at Grafton Notch. I hope he does. There is no way he should go down Mahoosuc Arm or through Mahoosuc Notch with that injury.
Broadway and Free Hands, two NOBOs I have seen a couple times before, arrived. I couldn’t find a decent tent site, and I was feeling much better, so I decided to continue another four miles and find a spot near East B Hill Road.
My feet hurt. My ass hurts. My left knee hurts if I try to bend it too much. Tomorrow I will be out of CBD, too.
I think there are 85 more miles of tough terrain before the trail gets easier (until Katahdin). Today was not nearly as tough as the Whites/Mahoosucs. Everything felt difficult though because I am worn out from yesterday.
Day 44, Dispersed site by East B Hill Road to South Arm Road. 10.9 miles
Forecast called for hot and humid weather, but I didn’t feel too badly today. Made myself drink a ton of water and electrolytes every hour or so.
The climb up Wyman Mountain was lovely. Gradual, dirt, easy footing. Yay!
Then it was a steep down with lots of rock steps to a col, then up a steep mile to Moody Mountain. That ascent was reminiscent of the Whites. Rocky, boulders, iron rungs, ladders, steeeeep. Finally got to the top, which is marked by a tree, and called the hostel I am staying in for my pick-up. Thunderstorms are in the forecast for tomorrow…and my left knee and leg hurt, not to mention my right butt cheek. I am going to take a zero and let everything rest. I just had a double zero in Gorham, I know, but the Mahoosucs wrenched my lower body all to hell, my back spasms sometimes, and I still have a lot of tough Maine terrain to go. I want to make sure I don’t get injured. So I will spend tomorrow out of the storms and inside a hostel resting, eating, and hydrating. Seriously, everything hurts right now. Plus, the seat of my merino wool shorts is completely ripped out (thanks, Mahoosuc Notch), so I have to figure what else to wear.
Met two SOBOs today on Wyman. Mountain Boomer and his wife(?) whose trail name I can’t remember. Hopefully I will see them again when I flip. At the hostel tonight are the family Scoot, Lost & Found, and Thump, also SOBO. Princess Peach is here too (Flipflopper). While waiting for the hostel shuttle, I saw Hounddog, Heartbeat, and Sticks & Stones again Saw Martian, Flinn, and Dust in the Andover convenience store while resupplying. It is nice running into the same people over and over. I will miss seeing these familiar faces after I flip as most of them are NOBOs.
Day 45, Zero day at the Om Dome in Andover, Maine.
Ate a ton, snuggled with the resident pug Ebenezer. Used a roller to work out the knots in my left leg. Lounged. Enjoyed the views from the gorgeous property.
Day 46, South Arm Road to Route 17 (Maine). 13.3 miles
Got a ride back to the trailhead at 7am. Left leg still feels wonky. Discovered Mahoosuc Notch’s bite out of my merino wool shorts has grown. My left ass cheek is now fully out of my shorts. Furthermore, my dress also has a small hole back there. I now have no idea if I am flashing hikers behind me. I know if my dress catches a gust of wind I could be arrested for indecency.
There is an outfitter in Rangeley. I called, they don’t have merino wool boxers, but they have anti-bacterial boxers that will work just fine. If I get to Route 17 in time, a local hostel owner will take me there. I will then stay at the hostel for the night before getting back on trail.
Made good time on the way up the biggest steep of the day, Old Blue. Nice weather with low humidity and barely any bugs. Then it was over to Bemis with all its ledges and blueberry bushes. I was reminded of my daughter Sage who would pick blueberries on our hikes whenever she saw them. I ate some blueberries in her honor.
My left leg still feels tight.
The terrain here is not nearly as difficult as Mahoosuc Range or the Whites, and I am thankful. I am hoping I don’t tweak my leg anymore. Will try to take it as easy as I can as I make my way through Maine.
Had a final little climb from a water source to Route 17. The owner of Camp 45 picked me up and we made it to the outfitter just in time. Bought new boxers plus a few snacks, then the owner brought me to the hostel. Am here tonight with five NOBOS I have seen before. Though they are friendly, I feel quiet and out of place. Will go to my room soon for some solitude and surf social media. This is a great hostel, just feeling like I want to keep to myself tonight.
Day 47, Route 17 to Piazza Rock Lean-To. 14.9 miles
Got dropped off on Route 17 at 7am. The terrain today was fairly easy compared to what I’ve been doing since the beginning of the Whites. Moderate ups and downs with far more dirt than rocks/boulders. Scenic ponds and lakes. Two privies with toilet paper, one even with its own visitor/hiker log! Still, my mood was sour. Maybe it was the fact that my backpack was now heavy after resupply. Maybe it was that my feet hurt. Maybe it was that I was bored with hiking and wanted to curl up on a couch or bed somewhere, drink water nonstop, and binge a series. I told myself to just put one foot in front of the other and to remember how beautiful all of this is and how fortunate I am. It was truly a nice stretch of trail.
Eventually got to Route 4…and there was Mark Trail and Roadrunner, along with Roadrunner’s girlfriend (I apologize, I can’t remember her name!). Roadrunner and her girlfriend were doing trail magic and cooked me a delicious hamburger. I don’t eat much red meat anymore, but this tasted wonderful. I think my body needed that quick shot of iron and protein because I felt a lot better after eating it. There was a separate trail magic cooler right before the road, and I had downed a Ginger Ale and eaten a Snickers Bar before having the hamburger. Good food.
I am learning that when my mood sours out here it is usually because my body is deficient in some kind of nutrient (or it needs rest). Taking care of the body equals taking care of the mind.
Mark Trail is now a day behind me after taking time off in Gorham to see friends. He was there at Route 4 with Roadrunner doing trail magic, but he’ll get back on trail at Route 17 (where I began today) to continue his hike tomorrow. I am sure he will catch up with me and I’ll see him again. The two offered to take me to Camp 43 Hostel tonight and then bring me back here tomorrow morning, but I declined. I want to hike two more miles today to Piazza Rock Lean-To so I don’t have to do those miles tomorrow.
I took my leave and hiked the two miles to the lean-to. Found a nice tenting spot not far from the shelter and privy.
Spoke with Lord Chuckles (NOBO) and Bilbo (SOBO) at the shelter for a while. Bilbo was kind and offered us a toke from his joint, but I declined. I miss my CBD, but I don’t want to do THC instead. Not that there’s anything wrong with THC. Were I not on a thruhike, I’d have some. THC would make my head fuzzy for tomorrow though, something I do not want to experience while hiking. CBD just relaxes me and takes away inflammation. CBD also promotes bone healing and can help prevent stress fractures. I miss my CBD and hope I can pick up some more in Stratton.
Tomorrow is a big day with ascents of Saddleback Mountain, The Horn, Saddleback Junior and, depending on how ambitious I feel, Lone Mountain.
Day 48, Piazza Rock Lean-To to Spaulding Mountain Lean-To. 16.9 miles
My mood greatly improved today. High winds, overcast skies, and above treeline – yay! That was my experience of Saddleback Mountain. The ascent from the shelter wasn’t bad, and the cool wind felt glorious and added to an otherworldly atmosphere.
The sun came out while I was between Saddleback and The Horn. This made the climb a little tougher as I don’t do well in direct sunlight. There was still a nice wind though. Gorgeous views!!
The descent off The Horn was rockier than I wanted it to be. I am ready for trails that are not boulder scrambles or tricky ledges. Same with the ascent and descent of Saddleback Junior.
Nevertheless, my bad mood seems to have disappeared. The windy above-treeline goodness blew away my blues.
Got to the next shelter at 1pm and decided to push ahead and climb Lone Mountain. Lots of beautiful water crossings followed by a long amble by a gentle waterfall.
Met a NOBO named Boulder who said he was injured but is determined to keep hiking. He has friends and family in Maine who can swoop in and help him if/when needed.
The trail between the summit of Lone and Spaulding Mountain Lean-to was gentle, which I appreciated. Mostly dirt. Saw a note in FarOut about a tenting spot right off the AT by the shelter area, but I decided to go into the shelter area anyway. Kind of full, but I did find a spot. Later, when I went to get water, I saw the AT tenting site. It is perfect, private, and really close to the water. Should have tented there. No one ever reads those buried FarOut notes so I bet no one will stay there tonight. It’s a nice spot and very private.
Hiking over Spaulding Mountain and the Crockers tomorrow. Long day. Not quite as long as today, but still. I think today I had around 5500 feet of elevation gain. Tomorrow will have around 3500.
Soon finished with the hard stuff until
Katahdin! The trail should get easier after the Bigelows, which are coming up soon.
Day 49, Spaulding Mountain Lean-To to Route 27. 13.5 miles
Had a hard time sleeping. I would start to fall asleep only to have one of my body parts jolt me back awake with hiker pain.
Got up at the usual time. Everyone around me except Lord Chuckles was still asleep. The shelter area got crowded last night, and I guess almost everyone else is a SOBO or section hiker since every NOBO I have ever met is up and out by 6:30.
Three climbs today. Spaulding Mountain, South Crocker, and North Crocker. Somewhere between yesterday’s hike and today’s, Geraldine “Inchworm” Largay stepped off trail to relieve herself in 2013, got terribly lost, and died a month later. Her remains weren’t found until 2015. I thought about this throughout the day.
The temps started out cool, and Spaulding Mountain went by fairly quickly. There was a long descent to a beautiful rushing brook, then a gradual climb up past a few more water sources. Then the heat arrived and I became soaked in sweat. At least there was a nice breeze.
The steep and rocky climb up South Crocker was made more difficult by the presence of two women day-hikers and their unleashed dogs. I was filling my water bottle at a stream when one dog ran ahead of its owner and barked and growled at me. The women made half-hearted attempts to keep their dogs under control as they passed. I caught up with them after I began hiking; one woman held one dog and stepped off trail to let me pass while the other allowed her dog to sit right on trail. The woman stared at me and said, “We’ll see you later.” I had to go around them off trail. After I passed and was up the trail aways, I turned and the dog that had growled was right behind me on my heels with the owners nowhere in sight! Time to use my ultrasonic dog repellent. It makes a sound humans can’t hear and dogs don’t like. I pressed the button and the dog turned and hightailed it back down the trail. I never saw the dogs/owners after that. Nevertheless, I kept a steady and fast pace up the very steep climb to put more distance between us.
Made it to South Crocker constantly dripping sweat. Went down to the col then made the shorter climb up North Crocker.
Lots of rocky down climbs today. I look forward to easier footing.
The Other, a NOBO section hiker, passed me. I’ve seen him off and on lately.
The climb down North Crocker to Route 27 was long! Nothing too arduous in terms of footing, but the five-mile descent took forever. My quads are tight, my feet ache, and my back is stiff.
Finally made it to Stratton and…trail magic! A lovely woman named CiCi called out to me. She was just getting ready to leave and had made me a little package with carrots & humus, a homemade blondie, potato chips, two small Gatorades, and a small Coke. The Other and Lord Chuckles had told her I was behind them, and so she had been waiting for me but was about to leave and was going to put the bag at the trailhead with a note. So glad I got to meet her in person! Her husband and his friend are sectioning, so she is up here from
Georgia to support them and also to do general trail magic. We talked for a while, then she gave me a ride to the Hikkin’ Inn where I am zero-ing tomorrow.
Yeah, I know, another zero, but I have been going through the most difficult parts of the entire AT, and everything hurts, and I need this body to last. I have met quite a few NOBOs who are nursing injuries – including diagnosed stress fractures in their feet and legs! – and suffering on trail so they can finish (less than 200 miles to Katahdin now). They each told me they didn’t take enough rest days. I will not make that mistake. If it takes me over six months to finish, so be it. Springer doesn’t close.
I am happy for my private room and bathroom in an Inn instead of a hostel. I do like hostels, but I definitely need my own space from time to time away from everyone.
Saw Broadway, FreeHands, and their two other NOBO friends in Stratton resupplying. They are not spending the night here as they are getting excited to finish and wanted to get right back on trail.
After my zero, I’ll tackle the Bigelows. After that, I hear the trail is much easier all the way to Katahdin. And then after that, I flip back to NY and can enjoy “deli-blazing.” Apparently there are delis close to the trail all the way through NY. I look forward to eating my way through that state after I flip and head south.
Day 50: Zero day in Stratton, Maine