Oct 2, 2024. Day 30
Lodi motel to DCA Gibraltar Rock. 8.5 miles. Total IAT miles: 465.8
What a fantastic, cool, clear, sunny, beautiful day!
Cool weather makes me happy, and I did the road walks and hilly wooded Fern Glen section quickly. Then it was more road walking until I reached the Gibraltar Rock segment.
The first Gibraltar Rock segment was a steady on dirt trail with some switchbacks and some stone steps in places. Less than a mile of ascent with 400 feet of elevation gain. The top of it was quite pretty, with views of the nearby Baraboo Hills and some rocky outcroppings that ever so faintly reminded me of NH’s Bondcliff (not really…but if you see the photo then you’ll know what I mean, NH friends).
After descending the other side, there was a short roadwalk before the other part of the Gibraltar Rock segment. A smaller hill this time with my DCA for the night near the top.
The DCA is a lovely large space with a trail register and a water cache from a local named “Goldilocks.” The water was welcome since there was no place to refill during my day today. I arrived at the DCA with enough water to make it until the next source tomorrow, but now I don’t have to ration it and go to bed thirsty.
I arrived at the DCA before 11am, but since my next lodging is in Baraboo 17 miles away, I’ll stay here for the evening. I did not feel like doing a 25+ mile day today over the Devil’s Lake segment. I am sure it would be substantially easier than the 25+mile winter ZBond Traverses I’ve done in the past, it still. I prefer to enjoy that segment and not make it feel like a death march.
It feels so good to sit here and feel the constant breeze. I am wearing my fleece for only the second time in this trip. Temps will be in the 40s tonight, so I should sleep well in my tent.
This DCA is incredibly sloped, but I found a flat-enough space for my tent close to the sign. If anyone else shows up tonight, I feel for them. If they try to sleep anywhere, they and all their belongings will end up squashed against the downhill portion of their tent. Unless they have a hammock. That would work well here.
Tomorrow brings the famed Devil’s Lake section. That, according to every source I can find, is the hardest part of the Ice Age Trail. I think there is a descent of 400 feet in half a mile on a steep set of stone steps. Probably similar to going down to Galehead Hut from South Twin, but half the distance. I’ll be doing a 17 mile day with a full pack but a light bear canister, so hopefully it shouldn’t be too bad.
Met a woman named Janice today who lives locally and is training for Patagonia in November by hiking up and down Gibraltar Rock each day. It was great speaking with her, and I hope she has a wonderful time in Chile.
LATER – At about 5:30pm Julia, who does trail magic and is one half of “That Wisconsin Couple,” showed up at the DCA for the night. She was testing her new backpack. We spent a couple of hours talking about the IAT. She and her husband are enthusiastic about it and have traveled the state widely. They also travel to National Parks each year. Julia gave me a treat from Olympia Granola. Ate it for breakfast the next morning. Yummy.
October 3, 2024. Day 31
DCA Gibraltar Rocks to Baraboo AirBnB. About 18 miles.
Woke up at 4 and did my best not to wake Julia. Packed up and got on trail at 5:20.
Went down the hill to finish the Gibraltar Rocks section and walked to the Merrimac Ferry. The ferry crosses the Wisconsin River and operates 24 hours. Rode the seven minutes across before sunrise. The sky brightened as I made my way toward the Merrimack segment.
The segment was quite scenic since it sometimes offered views of the ridges by Devil’s Lake. There were also quite a few educational signs along the route which explained the region’s history of oak savanna.
The Devil’s Lake segment began immediately after Merrimac. There were two ascents to Devil’s Lake. The first was a gradual climb of 550 feet leading to a ridge walk among quartzite rock outcroppings, ledges, and stunted trees with views of the surrounding hills and the lake below. The trail descended on a series of rock steps that showcased impressive trail work, crossed a flat visitor center region, traced the edge of the lake for a short bit, then plunged back into the trees to ascend steeply up a hill in order to arrive at another ridge walk. I enjoyed this section immensely, even if that second ascent did leave me out of breath.
Jenifer and Bruce, two volunteers I had met at the IAT HQ, met me on trail and gave me the yellow pocketknife I had left at the DCA on Springfield Hill. They were so kind to have looked for it, and they were so kind to find me and return it! Super nice people, these two!
After the second descent, there was another flat visitor center area toward a campground and then….bifurcation time!
There is a circle near the center of the Ice Age Trail. One can take the western bifurcation or the eastern. Most hikers seem to go east. I heard one hiker say there are fewer miles that way. Not true. The east and west have an equal number of suggested connecting route miles. Since everyone else likes to go east, west is the way for me. Besides, I found reservable lodging and campgrounds along the western route.
From the point of bifurcation, I walked into the town of Baraboo. As one enters, one walks right by the buildings used for the original Ringling Brothers’ Circus World. I noted the small buildings that once held elephants and tigers etc but didn’t spend much time looking at them since animal exploitation isn’t my thing.
I ran into Annette, a super helpful and friendly trail angel who houses hikers in Baraboo for free. I am not staying with Annette since I didn’t know about her until after I had already booked my AirBnB. I plan on coming back to the IAT and doing the eastern section of the bifurcation one day, and when I do, I will stay with Annette. It was wonderful to speak with her.
Left the IAT to go find my lodging for the evening. On the way to my lodging, I of course stopped at a diner and had an excellent vanilla milkshake.
My AirBnB is gorgeous and comfy. Pam, the property manager, is wonderful and allowed me to send my new HOKAS to the address. They were waiting for me in my room (I change my shoes every 500 miles to optimize the support). Pam also keeps the place stocked with all kinds of food – fruit, oatmeal, granola bars, muffins, tea, coffee, candy, cider…I did not eat everything as my hiker hunger urged, but instead took only a few things so other guests could snack too. I sure was tempted, though.
Tomorrow I will finish the rest of the official Baraboo segment, talk with my daughter, attend to some things I can only do via Internet, and rest. On Saturday I will do nothing at all. My legs and feet need the break. Then on Sunday I will continue my hike and head toward the Wisconsin Dells.
Days 32 and 33, October 4 and 5, 2024
TWO rest days! Woo-hoo! My body needed it.
On my first rest day, I finished the Baraboo official segment (just five miles of walking including getting back to my AirBnB, no biggie without a pack). I got my hair trimmed. I ate Italian food. I did some internet stuff (Terrifying 25 things, paying blog bills, other real-life tasks). I caught up with some friends online. Spoke with my daughter, too. ♥️ Also had a great conversation with Pam, the property manager of the AirBnB. I very much enjoyed talking with her.
On my second rest day, I walked around Baraboo’s fall fair. Saw Annette, trail angel extraordinaire, helping someone at the IAT booth. Baraboo is a nice small town with coffee shops, restaurants, bakeries, the works. Then I basically stayed in bed and rested all afternoon.
