June 28, 2024

Had a perfect day to hike a lollipop loop of the 9-ish-mile AT-Rim Trail-Pleasant River Tote trails. Cool temps with a nice breeze and low humidity, barely any bugs (!!), and the trails all to myself until the last mile due to my early start.

Drive the long and remote Katahdin Ironworks Road to the gatehouse by the historical site, paid my $17 (cash or check only) to Ginger, the kind lady at the desk, and drove gravel logging roads until I finally reached the parking area for Gulf Hagas.

The trail leaves the parking area and soon crosses the West Branch Pleasant River; it requires a ford. Even with the recent rain, the depth never went past my calves, and the flow was gentle.

Once across the river and while still on the AT, the trail takes you through the Hermitage NNL, a rare stand of old-growth white pine.

Gulf Hagas is called “The Grand Canyon of Maine” due to its steep slate cliffs with the river flowing below. Lumberjacks used to run logs through it during the late 19th century.

The loop part of the hike begins once the AT reaches the intersection with Rim Trail and Pleasant River Tote Trails. I did the clockwise route, taking the more difficult Rim Trail first. The trail runs above the river with viewpoints to the various falls along the way. Sometimes there is access to the water itself, and sometimes the views are from high above. Terrain is typical NH/Maine ledges/roots/rocks/eroded dirt/bog bridges. A regular northeast hiker won’t have trouble with it. A new hiker might struggle at times.

My favorite part of the hike is the section between Billings and Stairs Falls. The trail is high here, and the views down into the gorge are spectacular.

Pleasant River Tote Trail’s terrain is much easier than Rim Trail’s, so the return part of the loop flew by. I took a break back at the intersection with the AT. Saw two NOBO men who looked at me, ignored my friendly “good morning,” and spoke loudly to each other of how many miles they thought they could hike that day. Three other NOBOs came by. They were each friendly, and they kindly returned my simple greeting before continuing on their way. Saw a dozen dayhikers too, all within my last mile. This introvert is glad she began her hike early.